Christmas escape committee.

Well here I am again. Quite a bit of action. Rabat is great and a useful base. Met a friend, David from England in Marrakech, then headed to the Sahara for Crimbo avoidance which was very easy after two days in the maelstrom of Marrakech which  is a bit full on. Manic musicians , snake charmers, illegal animal sellers and the pre requisite carpet and leather sellers with out considering the evening food station where the choice of venue is based on the selling patter of the waiters.The food on offer is identical on each stall . The sheep's head stew was avoided ,can't think why. 

The ride by mini bus to the desert was interspersed with stops to a berber village where Holywood has previously made films and still is. A rug sellers house and an amazing gorge where the local water for irrigation is sourced from springs. Over night stop in traditional hotel with usual food was good and generally any spiel given was very informative. Next morning our group reloaded the bus.  The dopey 20 yr old Dutch boy was late but he explained that with his ADHD 12 hrs sleep was required. Groan! On arrival at dusty destination the anticipated sand dunes and ships of the desert awaited us. More than a token gesture camal ride took us to a vantage point dune for sunset then on to camp site. Four blankets kept me warm but I seem to have acquired a cold anyway. Then return to  Marrakech next day. 12 hrs later with essential stops only, our trip was completed.  Good fun, tea shirt. Tick. Highly recommended. 

Train back to Rabat, home! David installed and a brief tour of my turf. A plan to return to Tangier was decideď in a couple of days and much formal pointless paperwork was imminent . Leaving the marina by boat is the same as leaving the country!!! Therfore passport stamp ( which we do again on arrival at Tangier ) is required. 

25 hrs of motor sailing through the night which was brilliant and we arrive knackered in time for new year which is tonight . No plans made or desired. Trying to decide whether to stay in Morocco or head along coast of Spain.  I'm leaning towards that option as I'd like to be in la Manga mid month. 

The pups seemed to have been kept safe but moved to the medina. New mothers were being primed by their suitors at the waters edge by new dad's  ( I'm talking dogs still) I did have an interesting glass of wine in a traditional cliff top kasbah house with a local perve who despite being forwarned I was not a homo (his description ) still thought getting his todger out for some after noon fresh air was going to convert me. My cue to leave! On good terms as I thought it was funny especially as he asked me to close the court yard door when I left. Not much else to report. A few pictures, most are self explanatory.

Happy new year all. I'm fine over here but I hope the UK cake gets at least an icing if not jam and candles this year because it certainly looks like it needs it! X. 

                                     View from hotel Marrakech. 

Desert Berber village.

The classic camel train and riders. 

Rabat & Fes

So Morocco is great. People are friendly and honest place is interesting and a lot of money has been spent sprucing everything up. 

The trains are cleaner, stick to schedules and at 9€ for 2.5 hr ride put English train system to shame. There is some badgering in Fes but Rabat and Casablanca both are vibrant ando safe.

Not much happening boat wise but thinking of return to Mediterranean

after Christmas, might have a ship mate in David whose coming out in a week.

Have been talking to a litter of pups try to give them food but dog food is a bit thin on the ground. Gave them a dose of Flee, parasite and worm tablets last night might help them get through first few months if it doesn't kill them .

Been watching the footie Morocco have done really well so far and the fans are so loyal and almost a pleasure to be amongst more than being surrounded by a gaggle of drunk English fans !

Medinas are all much the same but this is a large and old one. Went into a tannery today which was pretty grim ; vats of lime and pigment water and skins every where even 

fish leather for certain drum skins. Had to pay some one but caused unrest between two who thought they should have been paid more and not so much to the worker at the gate. Bad smell there!

Changed oil and filter on boat hopefully all good. Watching lots of netflix . Reading about Lancaster pilots in ww2 . Still doing wordle in 3 and even the mini crossword every time, which is an achievement in patience if nothing else. Oh Fes is also a capital for hash production or consumption ,bit of both ! Now some pics. TNT. 

          

                              Tannery a hell on earth on a hot day in full production.

Back Street Fes

Snoozing pups.

Very large mosque in Casablanca.

Very large one in Rabat 

Mosque guard.

Cheap short way to the other side. The marina is actually in Salé across this river ,suburb of Rabat I think. 

Another first,

 

Tangier to Rabat . I had a lovely stay in Tangier marina for one week.  Really interesting place steeped in colonial history and more recent socialite gossip and intrigue. I visited the English church at the top of the hill looked after by man called Yassine,he was a font of knowledge and unfortunately managed to elicit a donation out of me which went staight in the box not his pocket. For those interested the inscription round the square arch is the Lords prayer in Arabic. The grave yard had a cousin of some sort of the Queen ,why there , apparantly he liked the boys ! Who knows that's not really a reason to go into exile unless they're underage. Also a bloke who guided Mick Jagger in social etiquette! - Christopher Philips I think and a VC winner.

The marina didn't want to let me in originally as there were no berths.  Not true just a different way of doing things,  so I claimed the boat was broken (not a complete fabrication, my previous departure from la linea was delayed for a day due to the engine not starting fixed that and left the next day) they eventually let me stay for three days on the welcome pontoon which was fine then stayed for a week. I took an overnight trip to the blue city  (chafchauen) which was amazing. All the back alleys were light blue, lots of stuff for sale but no real hassle like many places. Funny thing there was I miscalculated my cash reserves didn't bring plastic as I only use phone app, forgot my passport-not really an issue- resultant I had £18 to live on and get back to Tangier by taxi bus the next day. 

Starvation rations, some kind of fried ring carried on a piece of string had two as they were .20 € very tasty dipped in sugar, 

Things are cheap here but even I could see there was going to be an issue when I needed to keep back £11 for the journey .I'm not in buying  mode fortunately so rugs and pointy head berber jackets I had to pass on,.! I visited a lovely waterfall which had no water in it so walked up this track and talked to some goats. This is one of the hash making areas probably at the end of the path but didn't have time or money to support Moroccan industrial development. 

 

With at least  £1.50 left in pocket I arrived back in Tangier and therefore got a cab to the marina brilliant. The next issue was my key card not working , not really a problem as I intended to leave the next day but I think trying to keep my deposit of 20€ was a bit off so brief discussion with much tutting and face of disgust at the abuse of foreigners human rights resulted in its return. The place and people were really nice so only fond memories of Tangier probably need to call in there on way back!

Departure to Rabat delayed by customs,  police and bullshit but every one gets the same, then I was off . At least 24 hrs and 130 seamiles to cover . The possibility of the harbour being closed due to projected swell having been out and not sleeping was a concern. So wind on the nose as ever, I had both sails up with motor and got just under 7kts in the right direction. What did I do, well turned the music up and danced around for two charges of my jbl speakers. I have this idea to make a deck dance music video but can't get the camera to pick up the music. Not convinced a mute dance video is going to work and don't want to look like a tiktok monkey! 

So here I am in Rabat ,entry to harbour was fine at high slack tide with a 1m swell and an escortboat to take me up the river. I had three catnaps of 20 mins a packet of cheese pasta far too many cups of tea and a smug sense of achievement. It was pretty easy , I was lucky and didn't push out to sea to save diesel.  The prospect of being out on a long tack with wind drop or wrong no sleep and no chance to enter the port after 30 maybe more hrs of sailing made for an easy decision.  Still it was my first overnight solo sail and went well. 

I intend to stay for a month partly to muddy the water on my shengen clock passport issue but this is a good a place as anywhere to base myself for some travel.  I'm thinking Christmas in the Sahara if not actually in then within camal spitting distance which I hear is quite a long way.

Issue here is I now need to go and sit in a cafe to use their Internet to upload this. Haven't sorted a sim for my phone yet . I have one in cheap French phone but that doesn't seem to have taken my data purchase! Oh well.

Goatwalk

Free plate of prawn's starter in Tangier followed by plate of different fish fresh from port all for 7€!

Ah the open sea at dusk.

A rather classy imitation in Rabat.

Rabat fort in the harbour.

The second course, don't know what type  they are apart from calamari!