Return to Europe

Well I was only in Morocco for three weeks but it seemed longer. That's not a criticism, but it did get a bit samey and much as I love tagine and chicken you can have too much of a good thing . Interestingly being a salt fiend I note that their cuisine could benefit a lot from adding some!

After Marrakech David came back to Rabat and took in the sites, then we overnighted back to Tangier where we did the same. Great little sail and no issues.  Did buy some swordfish in the best fish market in Tangier. Made that in to steaks  pappiotte  (?) Then supreme fish cakes, and a last fish cake after david left not bad for 10€. We then sailed back to Gibraltar to drop off David and give me a chance to meet up with people I met there.

The sail back was uneventful apart from sighting a pod of short Fin pilot whales mixed in with dolphins.  I did get the feeling of here we go when I first saw their fins because I thought they might be the infamous Gibraltar orca pod but they weren't. 

After that I departed for Marbella to get gas bottled filled then on to Almerimar . Marbs was scenic but considering its reputation seemed to be more incontinence pads than party people. This was my first Stern to mooring using the slime lines which are as the name implys. What a bloody stupid system unfortunately it prevails in the med. Trip from there to Almerimar was great but big seas and winds over night got a bit daunting, plus more issues with the auto helm . Very bad time to go but it sort of came back. Arrived knackered at 05.45 then the problems started . Plenty of space but wind was blowing me off the visitors pontoon. Considering there were two marinaris and they know their port ,performance was poor so I scraped my boat, some one else's and generally spent 45 minutes going round in circles.Safe in the end. Need to get a few issues sorted but seems like a nice place .

I hope everyone's year has started well. David and I shook hands over a cup of tea at the year change. Radical!

Gibraltar harbour and one of the siege tunnels inside the rock.

Marbs at dusk. 

Damaged sail from other night.!

Christmas escape committee.

Well here I am again. Quite a bit of action. Rabat is great and a useful base. Met a friend, David from England in Marrakech, then headed to the Sahara for Crimbo avoidance which was very easy after two days in the maelstrom of Marrakech which  is a bit full on. Manic musicians , snake charmers, illegal animal sellers and the pre requisite carpet and leather sellers with out considering the evening food station where the choice of venue is based on the selling patter of the waiters.The food on offer is identical on each stall . The sheep's head stew was avoided ,can't think why. 

The ride by mini bus to the desert was interspersed with stops to a berber village where Holywood has previously made films and still is. A rug sellers house and an amazing gorge where the local water for irrigation is sourced from springs. Over night stop in traditional hotel with usual food was good and generally any spiel given was very informative. Next morning our group reloaded the bus.  The dopey 20 yr old Dutch boy was late but he explained that with his ADHD 12 hrs sleep was required. Groan! On arrival at dusty destination the anticipated sand dunes and ships of the desert awaited us. More than a token gesture camal ride took us to a vantage point dune for sunset then on to camp site. Four blankets kept me warm but I seem to have acquired a cold anyway. Then return to  Marrakech next day. 12 hrs later with essential stops only, our trip was completed.  Good fun, tea shirt. Tick. Highly recommended. 

Train back to Rabat, home! David installed and a brief tour of my turf. A plan to return to Tangier was decideď in a couple of days and much formal pointless paperwork was imminent . Leaving the marina by boat is the same as leaving the country!!! Therfore passport stamp ( which we do again on arrival at Tangier ) is required. 

25 hrs of motor sailing through the night which was brilliant and we arrive knackered in time for new year which is tonight . No plans made or desired. Trying to decide whether to stay in Morocco or head along coast of Spain.  I'm leaning towards that option as I'd like to be in la Manga mid month. 

The pups seemed to have been kept safe but moved to the medina. New mothers were being primed by their suitors at the waters edge by new dad's  ( I'm talking dogs still) I did have an interesting glass of wine in a traditional cliff top kasbah house with a local perve who despite being forwarned I was not a homo (his description ) still thought getting his todger out for some after noon fresh air was going to convert me. My cue to leave! On good terms as I thought it was funny especially as he asked me to close the court yard door when I left. Not much else to report. A few pictures, most are self explanatory.

Happy new year all. I'm fine over here but I hope the UK cake gets at least an icing if not jam and candles this year because it certainly looks like it needs it! X. 

                                     View from hotel Marrakech. 

Desert Berber village.

The classic camel train and riders. 

Rabat & Fes

So Morocco is great. People are friendly and honest place is interesting and a lot of money has been spent sprucing everything up. 

The trains are cleaner, stick to schedules and at 9€ for 2.5 hr ride put English train system to shame. There is some badgering in Fes but Rabat and Casablanca both are vibrant ando safe.

Not much happening boat wise but thinking of return to Mediterranean

after Christmas, might have a ship mate in David whose coming out in a week.

Have been talking to a litter of pups try to give them food but dog food is a bit thin on the ground. Gave them a dose of Flee, parasite and worm tablets last night might help them get through first few months if it doesn't kill them .

Been watching the footie Morocco have done really well so far and the fans are so loyal and almost a pleasure to be amongst more than being surrounded by a gaggle of drunk English fans !

Medinas are all much the same but this is a large and old one. Went into a tannery today which was pretty grim ; vats of lime and pigment water and skins every where even 

fish leather for certain drum skins. Had to pay some one but caused unrest between two who thought they should have been paid more and not so much to the worker at the gate. Bad smell there!

Changed oil and filter on boat hopefully all good. Watching lots of netflix . Reading about Lancaster pilots in ww2 . Still doing wordle in 3 and even the mini crossword every time, which is an achievement in patience if nothing else. Oh Fes is also a capital for hash production or consumption ,bit of both ! Now some pics. TNT. 

          

                              Tannery a hell on earth on a hot day in full production.

Back Street Fes

Snoozing pups.

Very large mosque in Casablanca.

Very large one in Rabat 

Mosque guard.

Cheap short way to the other side. The marina is actually in Salé across this river ,suburb of Rabat I think. 

Another first,

 

Tangier to Rabat . I had a lovely stay in Tangier marina for one week.  Really interesting place steeped in colonial history and more recent socialite gossip and intrigue. I visited the English church at the top of the hill looked after by man called Yassine,he was a font of knowledge and unfortunately managed to elicit a donation out of me which went staight in the box not his pocket. For those interested the inscription round the square arch is the Lords prayer in Arabic. The grave yard had a cousin of some sort of the Queen ,why there , apparantly he liked the boys ! Who knows that's not really a reason to go into exile unless they're underage. Also a bloke who guided Mick Jagger in social etiquette! - Christopher Philips I think and a VC winner.

The marina didn't want to let me in originally as there were no berths.  Not true just a different way of doing things,  so I claimed the boat was broken (not a complete fabrication, my previous departure from la linea was delayed for a day due to the engine not starting fixed that and left the next day) they eventually let me stay for three days on the welcome pontoon which was fine then stayed for a week. I took an overnight trip to the blue city  (chafchauen) which was amazing. All the back alleys were light blue, lots of stuff for sale but no real hassle like many places. Funny thing there was I miscalculated my cash reserves didn't bring plastic as I only use phone app, forgot my passport-not really an issue- resultant I had £18 to live on and get back to Tangier by taxi bus the next day. 

Starvation rations, some kind of fried ring carried on a piece of string had two as they were .20 € very tasty dipped in sugar, 

Things are cheap here but even I could see there was going to be an issue when I needed to keep back £11 for the journey .I'm not in buying  mode fortunately so rugs and pointy head berber jackets I had to pass on,.! I visited a lovely waterfall which had no water in it so walked up this track and talked to some goats. This is one of the hash making areas probably at the end of the path but didn't have time or money to support Moroccan industrial development. 

 

With at least  £1.50 left in pocket I arrived back in Tangier and therefore got a cab to the marina brilliant. The next issue was my key card not working , not really a problem as I intended to leave the next day but I think trying to keep my deposit of 20€ was a bit off so brief discussion with much tutting and face of disgust at the abuse of foreigners human rights resulted in its return. The place and people were really nice so only fond memories of Tangier probably need to call in there on way back!

Departure to Rabat delayed by customs,  police and bullshit but every one gets the same, then I was off . At least 24 hrs and 130 seamiles to cover . The possibility of the harbour being closed due to projected swell having been out and not sleeping was a concern. So wind on the nose as ever, I had both sails up with motor and got just under 7kts in the right direction. What did I do, well turned the music up and danced around for two charges of my jbl speakers. I have this idea to make a deck dance music video but can't get the camera to pick up the music. Not convinced a mute dance video is going to work and don't want to look like a tiktok monkey! 

So here I am in Rabat ,entry to harbour was fine at high slack tide with a 1m swell and an escortboat to take me up the river. I had three catnaps of 20 mins a packet of cheese pasta far too many cups of tea and a smug sense of achievement. It was pretty easy , I was lucky and didn't push out to sea to save diesel.  The prospect of being out on a long tack with wind drop or wrong no sleep and no chance to enter the port after 30 maybe more hrs of sailing made for an easy decision.  Still it was my first overnight solo sail and went well. 

I intend to stay for a month partly to muddy the water on my shengen clock passport issue but this is a good a place as anywhere to base myself for some travel.  I'm thinking Christmas in the Sahara if not actually in then within camal spitting distance which I hear is quite a long way.

Issue here is I now need to go and sit in a cafe to use their Internet to upload this. Haven't sorted a sim for my phone yet . I have one in cheap French phone but that doesn't seem to have taken my data purchase! Oh well.

Goatwalk

Free plate of prawn's starter in Tangier followed by plate of different fish fresh from port all for 7€!

Ah the open sea at dusk.

A rather classy imitation in Rabat.

Rabat fort in the harbour.

The second course, don't know what type  they are apart from calamari! 

Salam Alakum !

 

                                                      Departure this morning.

Well after a couple of aborted attempts here I am in Tangier. The sail (motor sail) was brilliant as I had the tides perfect and little headwind,but not sufficient to slow me down that much .Left at 6am in the dark and my drunken Finish friend helped but was sober fortunately. Sailed through Gib bay and into the current. Whisked along at at up to 11 kts and passed Tarifa 3 hrs after departure. Somewhat different to 10 hrs the other day and not making Tarifa. No problem tankers to contend with. Sailed into Tangier bay in under 7 hrs.

Then the problems started. I would have been more welcome as a refugee at a British boarder and felt like Mary at the inn. Too busy, no room, leave, don't block the welcome pontoon. Nobs. The true reason is that if you book they can sort the paperwork out before hand as opposed to doing it under scrutiny when you arrive unannounced! Should you be foolish enough to book you'll be told there's no room as I was then miss out. Any way told them I needed to do a repair , which I do sort of and bleated about sending a solo mariner out in a broken boat after 7 hrs at sea already, on a 36 hour voyage to the next marina which is tidal. Something worked as they gave me 3 days on the welcome pontoon. I am suspicious that one of the managers has pulled his digit from rectum in order to find my electrical part and thence get shot of me. Don't fear readers, I can feel a bout of the most chronic diaoreah coming on in a couple of days. 

Already been offered some hash just say no , and did! Had a bowl of lentils and chicken skewers which may well give me CD but good to strengthen the old guts. Apart from that, mforgot to mention that second departure from Las linea was blighted by non starting engine at 4 am so spent yesterday successfully diagnosing and fixing two relays and that is about it.

Had customs and immigration on board to sniff around ,they were pretty friendly so tourist day tomorrow whether the guy turns up with part or not .Not many pics maybe more tomorrow.

                              One of 9 tidal flow charts consulted on passage that change hourly.

Any one for 1/2 suckling pig. Sorry vegoes its on sale Spanish supermarket! 

 Offending item.

Tangier seafront.

Tangier here I come....not

 Well that was a challenging day. Left la linea 7.45 good departure with crazy Fin in attendance. 

Queen Mary. She overtook me on the Stait !( actually just zoomed in and I think it's Victoria ).

Decided to head to middle of Strait for best current but wind was picking up to about 22 kts decided to head back to Spanish side for protection but lesser tide benefit . Gear box was perfect then wind started to pick up more. Didn't have sails up . was crashing through waves. Deck was awash then wind was at 34 knots, I was about 6 miles from Tariffa where I had by now doing less than a kt at full power decided to pull in then realised my speed was backwards and had been for about an hr! Game over. Thought about Ceuta but was pretty knackered so headed for home, la linea ! Had the fore sail furled and was getting 12 kits over the ground. (GPS). The Gib dolphins came to meet me and before then I saw a sword fish or marlin jump out of the water by the boat several times amazing . So here I am and the weather is supposed to be atrocious till Wednesday. I might amend my plan to Mediterranean  Morocco. I'll have to see.

This was my embarrassing track!

Open for business again!

 

Well almost! 

It has been suggested that I might lose my readership if I don't post anything. Well loyal blogees I was being considerate  because nothing much has been happening! The end is insight though. My gear box is supposed to be arriving on Tuesday so I'll leave that for another day. 

One of the fine wines on offer in town. I'm looking for a case of the middle one!! 

I'm still liking La linea and the weather has been great so walking the streets still feels different and Mediterranean here are a few pictures of the scruffy little city which apparently is the poorest in Spain.I think that probably depends on parameters but there is definitly some poverty .Quite a few drunks and beggars but of the later not as many as in Chichester. My neighbour is a Fin' drinking from 8 in the morning and staggering before midday but he's good fun at a boats distance and the occasional  Sunday dinner outing.

I haven't been completely lethargic. I've learnt to splice loops in rope, replaced halyards, installed a sea water foot pump in the galley ,re caulked patches of the deck ,fibre glassed some minor dings, painted and varnished some internals while still having time to register with Tinder. That was a waste of good time as most of the targets are based in Marbella and have shopping as hobbies . A lot seem to go to the gym but that might be because I put down sushi and hot yoga as interests-- well its not lying!

So I did dog sit for three nights which was fun very cute dog, paid in Moroccan nougat and Jameson's whisky -good deal and that is why there have been no posts. Have met some good people ,some couples. Most are heading off to the Canaries pre Atlantic.I can only imagine that the anchorages and marinas there are carnage not even referring to the yahoo Brits although have to say some of the Jerries and Frenchies can get a bit lairy.

Fun to wake up 200 meters from the runway only BA and Sleazyjet fly in with the occasional biz jet and military transport, kerosene first thing in the morning is quite pleasant. Gibraltar still doesn't appeal and I think all nationalities are pissed at the crossing procedures.It does give an indication of what would happen with a hard boarder between Britain and Ireland though.

That's all for now hopefully be  on the move or moved by the next post.