Cappadocia

What an amazing place. Big highlight for this trip. Ironically I thought I might have been here 35 yrs ago. Back then I arrived at night  (like this time) ate an omelette ,got violently ill. Tried to leave back to Ankara next morning by any method. It transpires that it was here because I recognise the river and wall which I lay on and the shape of the road bend by it. The difference in 40 yrs is astounding Burger King , boutique hotels at least 5 Indians, a Korean and one Chinese restaurant. I was just thinking then I got the omelette because there was nothing to be open and those were the only ingredients in her cupboard. This time food obviously not an issue and desperate because I left my phone adapter in the last hotel I popped down to the bustling town to purchase from a selection of apple and Chinese imitations. Not surprising but a shame .35 yrs is and isn’t a long time.Turkey has improved itself in my opinion in many ways and without changing its core values . I don’t think we can say the same or even that we have improved our lot . Even their buildings in special areas are very much in keeping. Their response in the earth quake region, I’m sure has its failings but prompt and substantial.

My hotel is called balloon view , again no surprises this morning it was like balloon Apocalypse Now!

The buildings are absolutely amazing hard to believe people were in there when I was last here. Now most of the hotels claim cave rooms but they are a bit token gesture even if carved out of rock partly. 

Did the most arduous walk of trip since UK . Starting at cock valley,

up rivers over ledges, down gully’s like Cheddar gorge  and finishing at a castle atop another cave building!

Beautiful farm up the valley I trespassed. Met the farmer who lived in the rock and really looked after his animals including cats , dog, geese, donkey and calves.

I managed to get in to a couple of the anthill homes and was again stupefied by the whole thing.

 Bearing in mind it should be around -15° here at this time of year even with no windows kilims and fires would have made the place pretty snug.Having exhausted my self decided on a haman and Indian for supper.. The hamans are always a bit of a worry at least the one in Morocco was when there are old blokes lying on the floor in y fronts . I opted out of that one this one was brilliant. Great massage then steam room and sauna where the local police were using me to swear at their colleagues which was pretty Morty python 😄

Today I went to find the famous Dark Church from C 11 paintwork looks like it was done “yesterday “ . 

Lots of other church caves but none like this one.

 Then on to the underground city.

 It transpires there are two in the vicinity so I went for the bigger deeper one.

That completely exceeded expectations, what a feat of engineering. Not sure how many lived down there or how squalid it would have been but on the basis of the engineering I assume they would have been pretty together. I was flopping along bent double with shoulders touching the walls!

 Claustrophobes and chubsters would have a problem, as would I if the lights had gone off. Brilliant. Todays lunch was a bad choice of very insipid knee soup , god knows that’s what he said it was , and when I mentioned it wasn’t really my cup of tea he put some spice which was actually garlic . Transformed it though I did leave the fatty meat what ever it was!

Waiting at bus station overnighter back to the boat. Hopefully all good there 

Post broth, hand made pancake was supposed to be cheese and potato but I fancied sugar and lemon so , after much ironing of batter ,crushing the sugar cubes and finding a lemon the masterpiece was made better than any crepe.

26 hr bus ride

Mardin old town.

Can’t  just sit on the boat for a month so have headed east , past Aleppo to a lovely hill town called Mardin. Very old, full of Turkish visitors and pretty nice. Bus ride was great with cologne, cakes , sweets and a trolly service of water or coffee.Accommodation is a bit basic but lots of hot water and good jet that sprays the bedroom, Also ironically,the lavatories have arse washing jets like the Japs, being as they’re at opposite ends of  the social sophistication spectrum . Electricity went off for a few hours but the room was pretty dark any way with slit windows and 5 ft thick front wall??

My room.

Roof terrace and brekky

Did a 20 k walk down a valley and up to a monastery past a prison which was a bit austere, couldn’t hear any shouting or beatings but did not look like a welcoming establishment. The monastery was beautiful and made its own wine and olive oil 

Stayed two nights then on to big bus and mini bus to Adiyaman . Was told there were hotels there but most had fallen down in the February earth quake . Ramada hadn’t but wasn’t on my  list. A lot of roads had broken buildings and crushed concrete plots , very sad must have been chaos but the people are just getting on and the whole place smells of Kebabs so life is back to normal.Almost!

Where I am now is a bustling town which wasn’t affected but only 20 k’s up the road. Hotel is luxury at €30 per night with breakfast and heat in the room. Off to Mt Nemrut in a minute for some photo opportunities.

Just returned and it was a great little trip. Paid some 

bloke in a mini bus who does tours but I was the only 

one. One site was closed due to instability post quake. 

First item called the black bird tumulus, not sure it is , then on to a Roman bridge . Only blocked to traffic 20 yrs ago!

View of Nemrut from crow

Next was drive up to the Mt itself. 3 inches of beautiful snow! Most people go for sunrise/sunsets but conditions weren’t right and that’s in summer.Stone heads removed from their bases are pretty impressive. I learnt that I am an iconoclast. Most of the heads are damaged in a way suggesting iconoclastic vandalism .

                                       Nemrut!

                   Best snowball in living memory

Dam and local restaurant, was getting ready for tantrum  having invited guide to have a quick lunch then all this food turned up when I was expecting a beef kebab which isn’t in the picture . As it happens it cost less than €20 including drinks so just as well the fuse wasn’t lit properly.

Off to another hill in Cappadocia  tomorrow. Incidentally the top of Nemrut looks over Mesapotamia and the Tigris is down there somewhere. Good old names from the past!

                                

Turkey in Turkey

Have stopped in a couple of bays and Marinas since arriving in Turkey, Didim, Ören, Koiros(Datca) all were nice and required from the wind in Gökova bay.

Had a few good sails but have settled into Marmaris having bitten the bullet on cost. It’s a lovely bay and town with a safe marina. Arrived at night in a massive rain storm and stayed on the anchor so woke up in this amazing  bay. Abramoviches yacht is 

is parked over the way!I was here 40 yrs ago and just remember tourists and leather hawkers. There are still a lot of shops selling fake goods but the people are very nice and friendly. Not convinced by the knowledge of trades people. They seem to bumble about and make do on repairs. Never seen so many chandlers shops but none of them have any real knowledge or experience. Marine hydraulic oil was one example they all directed me to the car repair road , which would work but not really the done thing.

I got boarded by a massive fat cat who seems to like my boat. I came back the other day despite closing the main hatch and others and he was inside. I let him stay and bought him some whiskers but at night he goes for a walk and brings back pizza crusts! 

I’m on a little coach trip east. 17 hrs to Mardin then will work back taking in a few sights. I’m trying to find some turkey for crimbo, apparently they do sell it but I have to catch supermarket on delivery day. Brussel sprouts are available so it’s me and the cat for festive dinner- unless some Christian family takes me in for the novelty!

Had a few thunder storms and rain but it’s still 18 ° so no complaints there. I’ve booked into Ayia napa on cypress for January which is a very reasonable €600 / month that’s on the basis they are still not Schengen because if they kick me out and I go to the Turkish side I’ll run out of visa time- still dancing with the immigration wallahs!

Turkey maybe for Christmas

Well Turkey is a mixed bag. They are still thieving toe rags all smiles then hit you with fantasy prices. The place had changed alot since travelling around 35 years ago but marinas are twice the price of the European Atlantic cost and it’s low season. My plan to stay for longer than Christmas looking a bit dubious but plans still fluid. 

Had a couple of interesting times . Massive winds . Horizontal rain and lightning at anchor. Dragging anchors . Big swells but sea is still nice to swim in . There have been some classic blue sky and calm sea sailing days. 

Logistically it’s hard work communicating and if you can speak to a marina they quote a price then charge something more. I pulled into Yalikavik bay the other day which had locals boats at the anchorage point . The free town quay was 

overhanging so couldn’t go along side . Then  when I did find a spot the anchor dragged again and found my self broad side to a gullet at 50 meters and closing he was anchored. This means that when in a bay and the weather changes I’ve got one ear and one eye open but surprisingly my sleep quality does not seem to have deteriorated much!

It is getting a tad colder despite lying here in shorts and no shoes which has inspired me to service my heater already robbed by the Turks for doing bugger all I’m giving it a bash 🤡.

A little action link of  journey to Cokertme bay.

Samos and Greek departure.

                                                                                 

Didn't realise it had been so long since my last update.Time passes fast!

Went back into Rhodes Marina and met up with Ali who was visiting Greeks over there. She stayed in the luxury fore cabin suite with ensuite (if she bored through the bulkhead) ,so in fact all she got was the sound effects. 

I had to train her in the basics of toilet habits boat style and hand pumping then she was qualified for the trip up to Samos. It turned out as a motor all the way but still fun .Stopping for deep sea swims ,popping into Turkey at an anchorage which was one of the nicest I've stopped at with an amphitheatre by the water (ruins of course ,I'm going to revisit that one). 

Wasn't sure if that was legal but no one stopped us. Next anchorage was Agonothisi ,a little harbour with crystal water and virtually closed down for winter but still lovely. Next was an anchorage on the south side of Samos. 

Dingy ashore then a walk round the bay through an old olive grove no humans little ruined work houses ,no one there brilliant.Next stop Vathy in Samos harbour.

Ali left to stay with her friends .I got the fear because local fisherman said the southerly coming was going to be dangerous and I didn't need a repeat of the Spanish episode !

I moved to the other side of harbour which was also free, big positive but possible precursor to disaster.Interestingly there was a yacht over there which had come in with immigrants .All unlocked bits of rotting fruit on deck and open hatched. I noticed a paddle on board which seemed to be doing nothing so removed it about 4 in the morning as it could have blown off and damaged some one .Strangely enough it's the same size as one of my damaged ones ,and a fender seemed a bit loose. Don't know if the immigrants got away but no ones doing anything with the boat! 

Had a barby up at the Greeks place on the side of a hill ,amazing little village infested with cats who obviously were used to rich pickings at bbq's.

Moved back to the main harbour jetty again then bugger me northerly wind picked up and the boat was seriously in danger of riding up on to the low concrete jetty with a slightly raised water level.Italian coast guard immigrant hunters came out to watch and gesticulate. They were really nice but I decided it was more risky to cast off and try to anchor so they lent me two big fenders which did the trick but is was a rocking noisy night.

Departure day .Sent from pillar to post with various bits of paper to get scribbled on.Only one complete cuttle fish of a boss woman in the customs department caused my hackles to rise and she was wrong , however she turned out to be a mere mosquito,

Some bloke in passport office realised I'd been in Schengen for 15 days more than that slimy shit Cameron has opted us into (reminds me, I'm emailing Sunak to tell him what I think of his decision to employ that double chinned waste of skin.) Up shot of this eagle eyed conscientious administrator's observation is that I've been fined 600 euros.Not good news .I don't even feel bitter towards him 

,he was really nice and  I think was new to the job as he had to call some scruffy overweight hippy with a south African accent who wanted to apply the letter of the law and I think was training the young bloke. So all is not lost as my name appears to be Robert William on the piece of paper and i dont have to pay it until I get to England .Might struggle to get in to Greece for 4 years if I dont pay it but its not a priority,I have diesel to buy. Bear in mind that in Spain, I had over stayed for 8 months and theirs and Italy's fine scale is much higher than Greece's ,I got lucky.

Got out of there sharpish after that little debacle and confusion over whether I could anchor in Greek waters on way to Turkey decided to go straight to Turkey and here I sit in Didim marina .Anchored outside over night to make the most of the 75 euro/ day mooring charge but very nice and first proper hot shower for two weeks.Yes, obviously I wash ! usually- when swimming with the occasional Glaswegian bath in between .Seems to work. Not sure where to next,decide tomorrow! but not Greece.