Elba ‘ere it’s amazing

Well, made it to this years destination!Only just started but already it’s worth it. Arrived at anchorage 10 last night in Portoferraio moved to a buoy this morning. 12 hrs from Pisa with quite a lot of motor as no wind😡 but need to get a wriggle on. 

Been to a fort, Napoleon’s summer house, his 

winter one( being renovated so closed )

his theatre and more to see but very scenic and easy to imagine what it was like in 1814 . 

He was only here for about a year but did lots for the island and was very popular apparently before making his exodus.

The emblem of Elba is the bee apparently. Ironic that its the same for Manchester of all places representative of their work ethic!!?? In the fields of Joyriding and drug dealing no doubt.

Pisa was great , though confusing ticketing at the tourist sites.

 

Tina came to visit for a few days and we made a trip to Lucca, hired bikes to cycle around the city walls. Hired some more again in Pisa town to get to the nature reserve where I scared off a large wild boar and got grief from the park police for being in the wrong place 🙄. There is a pack of wolves , two camels and a horse race track in the same area! 

A high light was staying in the Royal Victoria hotel. We met the owner at the marina but I’d already spotted the place. What a total gem it was. Many notable guests I’d never heard of but those I knew. Charles Lindbergh, Charles Dickens, Scott Fitzgerald, Daryl Hannah, Alexander Dumas and Charles Rothschild. Better than the historic house across the river by far. Stunning!

I’m going on anchor around the island for a few days after tomorrow and hope no crazy weather comes down as is common. 

Then head to Spain again . Visa renewal time!

Exile on boat.

Sunset.
Bit of a food theme in the next legs as after Marseille I hopped 30 miles to an anchorage called la plage de Boeuf which was also a nudist beach. Beautiful clean clear water and refreshing temperature unlike the Spanish waters. More rocks I suppose.

Next food themed stop ,Pork rolls islands (Porquerolles). A great sail decent winds in right direction , quite a few boats and winds at anchor got up to 30 kts but blue skies and protected from swell.

 Interestingly I was having a kip then heard engines overhead and two fire bombers passed over turned towards me , scooped up water then dropped it ,twice! Private sir show. 

They appeared a few days later elsewhere and did the same thing, so obviously training or testing equipment. 

I got a bit concerned at state of wind and sea as lifting the hook in proximity to other boats when mine manoeuvres not ,is not great. Waited for a lull then shot across towards 

Lavandou. Used a tiny part of foresail only and was getting 7 kts over the ground👍Stayed outside marina on anchor . No point in paying for a day and using only 6 hours of it . Went in next morning. What a chilled little town. Lots of back street restaurants, big beach and quite a few tourists , but it is the start of cote D’azure. Good marina right price and apart from the boy sent to assist who didn’t push the boat away from the dock before it was secure gave me minor damage.Another relevant point .In France water and electricity is included , unlike Spain!! and it’s still cheaper even for high season. Provisions not so much.

Mega yacht with helicopter and Riva tender!

Afew people told me to come to the next islands . I was in the Channel between Ile de Marguerite and ile de Honorat which has a monastery producing alcohol among other things and they are beautiful but probably better out of season and busiest anchorage I’ve ever been to! Dingy ashore to admire the flotilla of super yachts and tenders bringing the beautifuls to the restaurant facing Cannes. I came in through the back entrance inadvertently looking like a bloke who’d been on anchor  a few days and had to go out the main entrance past people wearing an awful lot of white and cream. Make up and Hublots. I sniggered.

Cannes in the background. Passed on that and StTropez.

From there a short hop to cap d’Antibes. Very nice. Again dingied ashore for a look around, Quite down to earth place and very scenic in the old town. Before heading past my favourite super yacht so far to an overnight spot.

Ville franch. Point of coming here was to moor up outside Keith Richard’s old house Villa Nell cote when he was in self Exile( on Main Street). Owned by a Ruskie now apparently, though no lights on at night. Pretty hidden by trees from the water but quite a palace for my favorite grubby Stone, second favourite really.

Keith’s old house!

From there to my T shirt destination of this leg. Monaco .Unbelievably the marina was €54/ night less than Spain! Did a lot of walking about . No shopping and no fancy dining but absorbed a lot of atmos and had to go to the casino! 

Inside casino before the evening action.

Famous bend!

Heard two English speakers coming out of the Carreforre and as one was about 270 I asked if there were any second hand charity shops in the vicinity as I needed a jacket( 3 years away and not needed one yet) Also thought if there was a shop,it should be top notch not TKMax tat. Anyhow there may have been one but we reckoned it would only be women’s stuff mainly.They recommended Zara which I like and very kindly offered to drop me there. Right out side 😬 Not much choice though so went to the casino to check on dress restrictions and jackets were not required but no Crocs or singlets, fortunately I do have a pair of shoes other than Chinese foam by product. Bussed back there later 20€ entry inc voucher for 10 for a drink or the slot machines, so went for slots . Then proceeded to throw a 100€  down the drain but it did take an hour and no regrets😜Great place , The race track, Museum of Oceanographie (Albie’s quite an eco warrior) so alot if not all is under his patronage. 

Best aquarium downstairs! god knows how they built that in the old building!  Next stop Grimaldi palace in the same area of the old town, not really my cup of tea but for the T shirt you have to go. Finally the cathedral, home of a lot of dead Gremaldis not least Princess Grace , so had to go back in to find her.

Now on my way to Pisa to meet a friend. No wind but sea calm so will be using a lot of diesel but only a short hop from there to Elba . At least I’ve now experienced very busy anchorage’s which I’m sure there will be in Elba ere I’m able.

Sunrise over Italy this morning.

My present marina. More a river side boat yard but very friendly , deer on the other side and some noisey birds.

Another destination ticked off

I’ve always wanted to sail into Marseille and now I have. Not a disappointment! What a place . I came for the sordid and squalid but it’s all gone!! Interesting , great architecture, old french high buildings with louvre blinds( where’s Louvre)? City hill walks, Notre dame le garde church , great views beautiful inside.

The Mediterranean museum,a really amazing modern building with the most eclectic mix of objects jumbled very professionally together in a boulabaise of confusion that on exit left me feeling nauseous, very strange !

                              Cathedral

                        Le Panier area .

Prior to arriving though, I had my most challenging sail yet. 140 miles 23 1/2 hrs sailing only 1 hour engine door to door. 5.6 kts average speed. 33 kts with a regular 20. Helmed more than on previous trips to rest the auto helm and batteries. Sailed dark to save batteries as well. I was riding across the swell which came from the north having built over the last 3 days , this all in the gulf of Lion. Pretty taxing . The decks were seriously awash so with leaky hatches ,was the boat and I chundered in the morning . Just a little one, can’t have a proper sail with out puking but the motion was incessant!

Arrived at 11am next day at an anchorage 200 metres from Chateau D’If. Dragged a couple of  Times so moved about a mile, rested and tidied up. 11.30 pm trying to kip, got boarded by 4 blokes from french immigration /customs . They were very polite and respectful, 40 minutes spent looking everywhere and lots of questions .Seemed to be concerned with any weapons I was carrying. They said they had tracked me and I thought that would be an amusing line. Having said that, on approach I was 20 miles right in front of Marseille so pretty pleased by my effort. Earlier in the night I did think F this if it all goes pear shaped there’s bugger all I can do about it and an aura of tranquility descended upon the Kat . I decided to have a deck snooze and straight away a big wave broke across the cruddy so I had to change the sailing jacket I’d put on for first time in months for another and my boots. Funny I didn’t put socks on so in the morning I had to wiggle my finger down the heel because I couldn’t get them off😂.

Leaving tomorrow for upmarket French Riviera on route Elba. Sad to leave M , this city is vibrant .

Ate Iraqi today. Best meal I’ve had in multiple months . Lentil soup,home cooked pitta , lamb, some kind of rice,salad garnish with dressing fries. € 14!! Sooo tasty and in light of my anti Spanish culinary rant an example of how to, as opposed to how not to! Funny thing I had the Marseille boulabaise as I often don’t do the things you’re supposed to in places , paid 33 € cheaper than the 80 some were charging. Not worth it just ok but a report I read said that it was traditionally made as a stew with fish unsalable in the markets. Traditional for this fishing port but infinitely better fish soup’s elsewhere. Lesson learned , should have stuck with my instinct.

🥸

Museum from inside. Concrete metal and glass.

Outdoor ceiling art reflection of me taking picture for scale. 🤪

Back in to the fray!

Making my way leisurely up the Costa blanca, stopping in anchorages wherever. Lots of people seem to leave at crack of dawn, why I ask my self when I can mooch about , go for a swim and paddle board?? Anyway had some good sails and winds have been working.Was going to do a marina stop in Valencia, cheap as a small chip but they had no room at the inn. Jesus Christ  one little boat and didn’t want hay for the  donkey! Actually if hay is fuel and donkey is an engine ( oft referred to as that) then I did need hay. Nothing ever simple. Some turd in a catamaran was fannying about excessively which meant I had to loiter in the channel boats passing and moored on both sides . The petrol attendant commented on my Spanish  and I thought take a squizz at your shit English mate.. I remember him from before . I think he just likes to take the piss but in good humour. From there to Oropesa, been there before and love the place. Good price some great walks , a nudist beach and a normal steak and chips/ harder to find than one might imagine. The night before I thought I was getting one but it was bulls tail and much as I love it at home, this was grim grim grim, just tasted of bulls arse. 

I have come to the conclusion that apart from the novelty of eating Spanish on holidays, their cuisine is pretty shit. Lovely fresh fish fried to oblivion . Chopped up egg with potato ( Russian salad ) every where. Meatballs always average . Agreed I’m not talking fancy restaurants, but the unpretentious Spaniards eat this as standard. Sometimes you just need a change!!

From there to Tarragona. More good sailing , following sea , wind behind intended to motor for the last hour then the wind changed . 33 knots on the nose and the waves/ swell switched 180 degrees 3 hours beating in to this . Sky black, fortunately there was a light house in front of my intended spot and I needed it! Round the corner and was in. About 11 pm sea calm but no wind so what happens is the boat wallows on anchor and without a breeze oft turns across the swell even if it’s minimal it’s enough to cause a massive oscillation of rolling and banging. This is right opposite an oil supply harbour but in it’s favour, a rig was lit up like a Christmas tree and there was a firework party to match any Goodwood event. 

From there to villa nova il Getty? Anchorage by a nice little town. Had a visit from a bloke and his two 9 yr old daughters on paddle boards who wanted to look at the boat which was nice. Stayed here a couple of days no problem then big wind came and it was apparent I was dragging my hook! Three times I had to reset it post sunset and on the last occasion I noticed that the shackle where it joins the chain had snagged. I released it and it held as good as always. So little lesson learned.  Wasn’t the anchor , chain or stuff on sea bed just that it had snagged while turning on anchor in changeable conditions. Never do I take anchoring for granted! Time to head into a marina 10 miles up the coast.

 I’ve been here two days and will stay one more .😬 

Garaff.Coolest little village on side of hill. Sat at bar outside now . One shop called Wilson’s?? ( coconut in Casteaway?). 2 restaurants below I haven’t been to and my little marina.

Yesterday I visited Barcelona. Sagfredi Familar was amazing but couldn’t get in for two weeks.

So went to another two Gaudi houses. Found an old strip Club I went to on a stag 25 years ago. It’s still there! A testament to the quality of performance and establishment 🙈.

Today I went the opposite direction. To Sitges by train. I’ve heard a few say how nice it is there and true it’s very chilled and Greek like.

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Found this church above the village designed by Gaudi apparently though not definitely. I love his buildings , very imaginative .

Very ornate gate and roof wall on church.

That’s my admin done for another month! By next time I should have covered some miles.