Saturday, 19 July 2025

Another destination ticked off


I’ve always wanted to sail into Marseille and now I have. Not a disappointment! What a place . I came for the sordid and squalid but it’s all gone!! Interesting , great architecture, old french high buildings with louvre blinds( where’s Louvre)? City hill walks, Notre dame le garde church , great views beautiful inside.

















The Mediterranean museum,a really amazing modern building with the most eclectic mix of objects jumbled very professionally together in a boulabaise of confusion that on exit left me feeling nauseous, very strange !

                              Cathedral
                        Le Panier area .


Prior to arriving though, I had my most challenging sail yet. 140 miles 23 1/2 hrs sailing only 1 hour engine door to door. 5.6 kts average speed. 33 kts with a regular 20. Helmed more than on previous trips to rest the auto helm and batteries. Sailed dark to save batteries as well. I was riding across the swell which came from the north having built over the last 3 days , this all in the gulf of Lion. Pretty taxing . The decks were seriously awash so with leaky hatches ,was the boat and I chundered in the morning . Just a little one, can’t have a proper sail with out puking but the motion was incessant!

Arrived at 11am next day at an anchorage 200 metres from Chateau D’If. Dragged a couple of  Times so moved about a mile, rested and tidied up. 11.30 pm trying to kip, got boarded by 4 blokes from french immigration /customs . They were very polite and respectful, 40 minutes spent looking everywhere and lots of questions .Seemed to be concerned with any weapons I was carrying. They said they had tracked me and I thought that would be an amusing line. Having said that, on approach I was 20 miles right in front of Marseille so pretty pleased by my effort. Earlier in the night I did think F this if it all goes pear shaped there’s bugger all I can do about it and an aura of tranquility descended upon the Kat . I decided to have a deck snooze and straight away a big wave broke across the cruddy so I had to change the sailing jacket I’d put on for first time in months for another and my boots. Funny I didn’t put socks on so in the morning I had to wiggle my finger down the heel because I couldn’t get them off😂.
Leaving tomorrow for upmarket French Riviera on route Elba. Sad to leave M , this city is vibrant .
Ate Iraqi today. Best meal I’ve had in multiple months . Lentil soup,home cooked pitta , lamb, some kind of rice,salad garnish with dressing fries. € 14!! Sooo tasty and in light of my anti Spanish culinary rant an example of how to, as opposed to how not to! Funny thing I had the Marseille boulabaise as I often don’t do the things you’re supposed to in places , paid 33 € cheaper than the 80 some were charging. Not worth it just ok but a report I read said that it was traditionally made as a stew with fish unsalable in the markets. Traditional for this fishing port but infinitely better fish soup’s elsewhere. Lesson learned , should have stuck with my instinct.


🥸


Museum from inside. Concrete metal and glass.
Outdoor ceiling art reflection of me taking picture for scale. 🤪

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