Saronics to Cyclades

So after Athens, I decided to head south east but also with the intention of reducing diesel usage. This to be achieved by going where the wind takes me as long as it’s vaguely in the right direction. Careful what you wish for! Got to a little island about 30 miles SE of Athens - with engine then aware that the winds were to pick up , rather than anchor put up all the sails with one main reef. Mid afternoon lovely sun and as predicted perfect sailing . I was all set for a long one then at 6ish the wind turned in to a standard  Meltemi . Not a problem but hurtling a long in the dark with the deck awash not sure how much higher than 28 kts the wind was going, the work load was already high. My wind gauges are a bit random as they’re supposed to show actual and apparent but fluctuate in a non logical way .Any how pretty windy , not a good option to go forward and drop the main  and with out turning in to wind the genoa was going to be tricky aswell .About 11 o’clock decided that if it kept up I’d head to Crete as my next stop at least there would be day light! As it happened. As I came to my planned island , the wind was blocked and I did a rapid desail and took refuge in a harbour anchorage . 2am finish and  96 miles covered. I need more of those .

A mysterious yacht appeared at one point on a converging course. No AIS. Like radar but not; in line with a tanker that was identing. Couldn’t work out why he was still heading for me until I grabbed my high power light and shone it at him which was when I saw it was a yacht. He made a sharp turn and disappeared. Don’t know what he was up to. Not looking out , dozing? All was fine. 

So that was Appollonia. Stayed two nights and went ashore then headed to Sikinos. Again no motor😁, didn’t land there just had a swim and tried fishing again to no avail!!

Next morning aimed at Santorini and still the wind was working in my favour. If nothing else I’ve acquired patience on this trip. Now I can settle for 3 kts; before I’d switch on the engine and race for the next destination.

Santorini. I give a wavering thumb to . 5 cruise ships in the harbour or caldera € 50 to tie up on a buoy! I opted for the hot springs in the volcanic middle of the caldera went for a swim in the sulphurous warm water and cooked up a potato and celeriac soup after but was kicked off those buoys by the trog infested catamaran fleets . Very annoying and very few alternatives to anchor as it’s either deep or rocky. Found a harbour round to the south  but the resident Stavros wouldn’t answer the phone after my initial contact! So ended up anchoring out side the harbour entrance. Dingied ashore and had a plate of calamari- my first on this trip , far too big and not as good as the Spanish ones. I thought the Spanish ones were better when I was there. Interesting as Greece is probably better known for them.

Technically I did set foot on Santorini but didn’t do the white building hill climb trog trip. 

Was warned by the locals that all the cats’ were bunking off to the volcano to anchor as large waves and swell were due from the south the next day. Most peculiar , I was leaving any how.

Now have arrived on Anafi an island with an anchorage to the north but no good if the Meltemi comes back, fine with the predicted weather weirdness 

mentioned. I 

might stay two nights here lovely clear sea , sandy bottom and as the fish aren’t playing ball I’ve made a fishing spear from a fork and tent pole. It can only be more successful than my rod efforts. Watch this space! At sunset a small fishing  boat has taken up residence across the water from me . They better not be the Greek fishermen equivalent of Brokeback Mountain .  

Still at this anchorage it’s Saturday. All action day. Dingyed into a low cave with little water ways and

caverns amazing then spotted two eyes 👀 A trapped goat ? No a seal suckling off a big mother!! Seals in the med? Monk seals apparently and rare.Left them to it then rowed to other side where I acquired a small fender , thank you, then on with the snorkel spear in hand. Fish and rock forms better than a lot of dives but no prey until I came round to the  dingy again. Bingo . First lunge and I’ve got lunch on a fork. First catch on the trip!

While cooking it my anchor decided to release which hadn’t happened since I’ve been here and  I’m floating out to sea. Pain is that by the time I’d returned to anchor a sea caravan had pulled in and an Italian shot in front of me in to my spot. He better not require assistance with anything.

A lot of effort and mess but at least the tool works !