Turkey in Turkey

Have stopped in a couple of bays and Marinas since arriving in Turkey, Didim, Ören, Koiros(Datca) all were nice and required from the wind in Gökova bay.

Had a few good sails but have settled into Marmaris having bitten the bullet on cost. It’s a lovely bay and town with a safe marina. Arrived at night in a massive rain storm and stayed on the anchor so woke up in this amazing  bay. Abramoviches yacht is 

is parked over the way!I was here 40 yrs ago and just remember tourists and leather hawkers. There are still a lot of shops selling fake goods but the people are very nice and friendly. Not convinced by the knowledge of trades people. They seem to bumble about and make do on repairs. Never seen so many chandlers shops but none of them have any real knowledge or experience. Marine hydraulic oil was one example they all directed me to the car repair road , which would work but not really the done thing.

I got boarded by a massive fat cat who seems to like my boat. I came back the other day despite closing the main hatch and others and he was inside. I let him stay and bought him some whiskers but at night he goes for a walk and brings back pizza crusts! 

I’m on a little coach trip east. 17 hrs to Mardin then will work back taking in a few sights. I’m trying to find some turkey for crimbo, apparently they do sell it but I have to catch supermarket on delivery day. Brussel sprouts are available so it’s me and the cat for festive dinner- unless some Christian family takes me in for the novelty!

Had a few thunder storms and rain but it’s still 18 ° so no complaints there. I’ve booked into Ayia napa on cypress for January which is a very reasonable €600 / month that’s on the basis they are still not Schengen because if they kick me out and I go to the Turkish side I’ll run out of visa time- still dancing with the immigration wallahs!

Turkey maybe for Christmas

Well Turkey is a mixed bag. They are still thieving toe rags all smiles then hit you with fantasy prices. The place had changed alot since travelling around 35 years ago but marinas are twice the price of the European Atlantic cost and it’s low season. My plan to stay for longer than Christmas looking a bit dubious but plans still fluid. 

Had a couple of interesting times . Massive winds . Horizontal rain and lightning at anchor. Dragging anchors . Big swells but sea is still nice to swim in . There have been some classic blue sky and calm sea sailing days. 

Logistically it’s hard work communicating and if you can speak to a marina they quote a price then charge something more. I pulled into Yalikavik bay the other day which had locals boats at the anchorage point . The free town quay was 

overhanging so couldn’t go along side . Then  when I did find a spot the anchor dragged again and found my self broad side to a gullet at 50 meters and closing he was anchored. This means that when in a bay and the weather changes I’ve got one ear and one eye open but surprisingly my sleep quality does not seem to have deteriorated much!

It is getting a tad colder despite lying here in shorts and no shoes which has inspired me to service my heater already robbed by the Turks for doing bugger all I’m giving it a bash 🤡.

A little action link of  journey to Cokertme bay.

Samos and Greek departure.

                                                                                 

Didn't realise it had been so long since my last update.Time passes fast!

Went back into Rhodes Marina and met up with Ali who was visiting Greeks over there. She stayed in the luxury fore cabin suite with ensuite (if she bored through the bulkhead) ,so in fact all she got was the sound effects. 

I had to train her in the basics of toilet habits boat style and hand pumping then she was qualified for the trip up to Samos. It turned out as a motor all the way but still fun .Stopping for deep sea swims ,popping into Turkey at an anchorage which was one of the nicest I've stopped at with an amphitheatre by the water (ruins of course ,I'm going to revisit that one). 

Wasn't sure if that was legal but no one stopped us. Next anchorage was Agonothisi ,a little harbour with crystal water and virtually closed down for winter but still lovely. Next was an anchorage on the south side of Samos. 

Dingy ashore then a walk round the bay through an old olive grove no humans little ruined work houses ,no one there brilliant.Next stop Vathy in Samos harbour.

Ali left to stay with her friends .I got the fear because local fisherman said the southerly coming was going to be dangerous and I didn't need a repeat of the Spanish episode !

I moved to the other side of harbour which was also free, big positive but possible precursor to disaster.Interestingly there was a yacht over there which had come in with immigrants .All unlocked bits of rotting fruit on deck and open hatched. I noticed a paddle on board which seemed to be doing nothing so removed it about 4 in the morning as it could have blown off and damaged some one .Strangely enough it's the same size as one of my damaged ones ,and a fender seemed a bit loose. Don't know if the immigrants got away but no ones doing anything with the boat! 

Had a barby up at the Greeks place on the side of a hill ,amazing little village infested with cats who obviously were used to rich pickings at bbq's.

Moved back to the main harbour jetty again then bugger me northerly wind picked up and the boat was seriously in danger of riding up on to the low concrete jetty with a slightly raised water level.Italian coast guard immigrant hunters came out to watch and gesticulate. They were really nice but I decided it was more risky to cast off and try to anchor so they lent me two big fenders which did the trick but is was a rocking noisy night.

Departure day .Sent from pillar to post with various bits of paper to get scribbled on.Only one complete cuttle fish of a boss woman in the customs department caused my hackles to rise and she was wrong , however she turned out to be a mere mosquito,

Some bloke in passport office realised I'd been in Schengen for 15 days more than that slimy shit Cameron has opted us into (reminds me, I'm emailing Sunak to tell him what I think of his decision to employ that double chinned waste of skin.) Up shot of this eagle eyed conscientious administrator's observation is that I've been fined 600 euros.Not good news .I don't even feel bitter towards him 

,he was really nice and  I think was new to the job as he had to call some scruffy overweight hippy with a south African accent who wanted to apply the letter of the law and I think was training the young bloke. So all is not lost as my name appears to be Robert William on the piece of paper and i dont have to pay it until I get to England .Might struggle to get in to Greece for 4 years if I dont pay it but its not a priority,I have diesel to buy. Bear in mind that in Spain, I had over stayed for 8 months and theirs and Italy's fine scale is much higher than Greece's ,I got lucky.

Got out of there sharpish after that little debacle and confusion over whether I could anchor in Greek waters on way to Turkey decided to go straight to Turkey and here I sit in Didim marina .Anchored outside over night to make the most of the 75 euro/ day mooring charge but very nice and first proper hot shower for two weeks.Yes, obviously I wash ! usually- when swimming with the occasional Glaswegian bath in between .Seems to work. Not sure where to next,decide tomorrow! but not Greece.

Not much to report so just a few pictures

Made it to Rhodes and waiting for Ali to turn up for a land based week and maybe a sail to Samos. Plans fluid as ever!

After Anafi the next island was Astypalaia. A lovely anchorage then into the port for a town visit

Anchorage 

                           Castle at top of hill.

Next was Symi with its monastery and gun emplacement  

and turtles living in the harbour! That was a night time arrival. Through the corner of Turkish waters, no gun boats!

The Simi monastery with chiming clock and weird nighttime chanting. Great 😊 

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                           Spot the turtle.

From there into Rhodes marina to check out its facilities. Very nice and very helpful. Trying to find oil filters for next service is proving problematic but I’ll get them in the end. Took off round the corner for a couple of days to save money. 

AntonyQuinn bay and another one I’m in now. Clear blue sea sandy bottoms and lovely views. One major asset of being delayed by my boat repairs is that I’m missing all the charter fleets. There are a few still but these bays would be rammed and not relaxing at all. I can even take a 5° drop in air and water temp and still be as happy as the proverbial pig. Everything would be very different with the hordes! In the second one I walked to top of hill but was blocked , however did find two rather interesting relics by the path!

 

                                  Katrilli at rest 

Met a German in the marina who sailed from Hamburg to Port Said but couldn’t get round the bureaucracy so is heading to Canaries and over to Panama, target Reunion island ! . No auto helm, no toilet . Black bucket  on a rope while sitting in a bath tub, good luck to him  I say. His first boat as well, learning on the hoof!

Saronics to Cyclades

So after Athens, I decided to head south east but also with the intention of reducing diesel usage. This to be achieved by going where the wind takes me as long as it’s vaguely in the right direction. Careful what you wish for! Got to a little island about 30 miles SE of Athens - with engine then aware that the winds were to pick up , rather than anchor put up all the sails with one main reef. Mid afternoon lovely sun and as predicted perfect sailing . I was all set for a long one then at 6ish the wind turned in to a standard  Meltemi . Not a problem but hurtling a long in the dark with the deck awash not sure how much higher than 28 kts the wind was going, the work load was already high. My wind gauges are a bit random as they’re supposed to show actual and apparent but fluctuate in a non logical way .Any how pretty windy , not a good option to go forward and drop the main  and with out turning in to wind the genoa was going to be tricky aswell .About 11 o’clock decided that if it kept up I’d head to Crete as my next stop at least there would be day light! As it happened. As I came to my planned island , the wind was blocked and I did a rapid desail and took refuge in a harbour anchorage . 2am finish and  96 miles covered. I need more of those .

A mysterious yacht appeared at one point on a converging course. No AIS. Like radar but not; in line with a tanker that was identing. Couldn’t work out why he was still heading for me until I grabbed my high power light and shone it at him which was when I saw it was a yacht. He made a sharp turn and disappeared. Don’t know what he was up to. Not looking out , dozing? All was fine. 

So that was Appollonia. Stayed two nights and went ashore then headed to Sikinos. Again no motor😁, didn’t land there just had a swim and tried fishing again to no avail!!

Next morning aimed at Santorini and still the wind was working in my favour. If nothing else I’ve acquired patience on this trip. Now I can settle for 3 kts; before I’d switch on the engine and race for the next destination.

Santorini. I give a wavering thumb to . 5 cruise ships in the harbour or caldera € 50 to tie up on a buoy! I opted for the hot springs in the volcanic middle of the caldera went for a swim in the sulphurous warm water and cooked up a potato and celeriac soup after but was kicked off those buoys by the trog infested catamaran fleets . Very annoying and very few alternatives to anchor as it’s either deep or rocky. Found a harbour round to the south  but the resident Stavros wouldn’t answer the phone after my initial contact! So ended up anchoring out side the harbour entrance. Dingied ashore and had a plate of calamari- my first on this trip , far too big and not as good as the Spanish ones. I thought the Spanish ones were better when I was there. Interesting as Greece is probably better known for them.

Technically I did set foot on Santorini but didn’t do the white building hill climb trog trip. 

Was warned by the locals that all the cats’ were bunking off to the volcano to anchor as large waves and swell were due from the south the next day. Most peculiar , I was leaving any how.

Now have arrived on Anafi an island with an anchorage to the north but no good if the Meltemi comes back, fine with the predicted weather weirdness 

mentioned. I 

might stay two nights here lovely clear sea , sandy bottom and as the fish aren’t playing ball I’ve made a fishing spear from a fork and tent pole. It can only be more successful than my rod efforts. Watch this space! At sunset a small fishing  boat has taken up residence across the water from me . They better not be the Greek fishermen equivalent of Brokeback Mountain .  

Still at this anchorage it’s Saturday. All action day. Dingyed into a low cave with little water ways and

caverns amazing then spotted two eyes 👀 A trapped goat ? No a seal suckling off a big mother!! Seals in the med? Monk seals apparently and rare.Left them to it then rowed to other side where I acquired a small fender , thank you, then on with the snorkel spear in hand. Fish and rock forms better than a lot of dives but no prey until I came round to the  dingy again. Bingo . First lunge and I’ve got lunch on a fork. First catch on the trip!

While cooking it my anchor decided to release which hadn’t happened since I’ve been here and  I’m floating out to sea. Pain is that by the time I’d returned to anchor a sea caravan had pulled in and an Italian shot in front of me in to my spot. He better not require assistance with anything.

A lot of effort and mess but at least the tool works !

Corinth canal to Athens

A minor ambition fulfilled.To pass down the Corinth canal! It has been closed several times in the last two years as a result of landslides and was due to be now , but fortunately for me they decided to extend this open period till the start of November. Don’t know why because there was bugger all traffic really. I’ve put a couple of vids on YouTube, not very dynamic but interesting to some.

Free mooring night before 10 miles from canal entry.

A hearty boat lunch after the canal🤡

You would have thought Athens would be straight forward but no. . No room at the inn for Kat and me. So I found a wall outside one of the numerous marinas and all seems well . Quite busy with locals sailing but they’ve left me alone and I just have to contend with the day trip party boat which will return about now. Hopefully not requiring my patch of wall!

Up to the acropolis by tram, tube and foot this morning.Bit of an anti climax . Have been about 30 yrs ago so went out of conscience . Couldn’t really come to Greece without visiting Athens and if in Athens; well you know. Any how the place was riddled with cruise liner monsters , a fair few yanks but generally hordes of people. As is often the way the main attraction is covered in scaffolding and the place has no atmosphere at all. Upside to this little outing was € 20 ticket that would only let me in at 11 o’clock inspired me to try my hand at the gate around 9. What with the confusion I went in with out showing ticket so sold it to an American for half price. Every ones a winner!

This was much more exciting. Notice, no people. They arrived by coach as I was leaving. Olympic stadium built around 2000 yrs ago renovated in late 1800 and very atmospheric. Well worth the effort.

Olympic torch collection and a few of the silly mascots they seem to use now .

Last outing today was the George Averoff. A museum battleship moored a few hundred metres away. Technically an armoured cruiser not a battleship. Renovated in 2017 and as the Greek flagship for some years , much revered . Off south east tomorrow going to go where the wind gives me best rate for approximate direction. Got to cut back on Diesel!

There’s my boat against the jetty.